a. Simple! Just pick up a test kit at our office and we’ll send your water sample to our lab.

a. Give us a call or email your results to [email protected] so we can review your results and make recommendations.

a. The State of New Hampshire recommends testing every year for bacteria and once every three to five years for other contaminants of concern.

a. If you have any concerns about the quality of the water in your home or business, we recommend getting your water tested. The results from the lab come back within 3-5 days and we can consult with you on the next steps once we review them.

a. Water issues typically fall into one of two categories: dangerous and unhealthy or harmless but unpleasant. If your water has a smell, looks cloudy, stains, leaves a bad taste, you might have an unhealthy water supply, which could signal the presence of arsenic or radon. Our water tests will help us understand the quality of your water and what’s really in it so that we can diagnose any problem and offer some solutions. 

a. We always recommend testing water for radon, especially if radon can be
detected in the air. If air has radon, the water will contribute to radon as well.

a. Reasons to change the filter: You’re experiencing a lack of pressure or the filter is worn from use. If it is a carbon filter, the odor has returned. Tools required: The filter wrench that came with your system, the new filter, sterilized gloves (such as latex or nitrile), and a bucket.

b. Locate the ball valve upstream of the system and turn the handle so it is perpendicular to the pipe.

c. Locate the ball valve downstream of the system and turn the handle so it is perpendicular to the pipe. (These steps make it so no water will run through the pipe while you are changing your filter.)

d. Depressurize: Press the red button on the top of the filter. (This allows air and water to escape and relieves the pressure inside the filter housing, some water will trickle out)

e. Put on sterilized gloves.

f. With your system, there should be a black filter wrench. (Looks like a small tennis racket without strings.) Slip this wrench under the blue filter housing and rotate clockwise to loosen it.

g. Once you’ve loosened the housing, continue to unscrew with your hands. The housing will have water in it, so place one hand on the bottom to keep it from falling and unscrew with your other hand.

h. When the unit comes off, there will be an O-ring that you’ll want to set aside.

i. Pull the old filter out of the housing and dispose.

j. Dump the water from the housing into a bucket.

k. If your filter is only for sediment (a non-carbon filter), we recommend putting 1 capful of bleach in the housing to reduce the possibility of introducing bacteria into the system.

l. Wipe the O-ring clean and inspect for any wear or debris.

m. If the O-ring looks good, put it back around the housing.

n. Insert your new filter.

o. Screw the housing back on to its original location.

p. Tighten it with your hands and then give it a small tug with the filter wrench.

q. Turn both valves (the one before the unit and the one after the unit) back on.

r. At a faucet, run water until all air has been flushed from the system (water may seem foam-like at first).

a. Per the NH Department of Environmental Services, it is recommended to test for bacteria, nitrate, and nitrite in your drinking water every year. All other chemicals and minerals should be tested every 3-5 years, as water quality can change.

a. A pressure switch with a low-pressure cutoff may be installed if there is a history of low water production or loss of water pressure, to protect the pump.

i. Shut off the main water valve

ii. Lift the lever slowly about half way and hold it, typically you will feel a vibration.

iii. Continue to hold the lever until the pressure gauge builds up to 20-30 psi (you may feel the lever slightly lift off of your finger).

iv. Once the system builds up to pressure, you may open the main water valve.